70 Clock Galerie / Pull Ups and Psy-Op-20
Traction Men’s Wearhouse et Huitième Op-Psy-20
Men’s Wearhouse Pull Up and Eighth Psy-Op-20
June 2020
A shuttered Men's Wearhouse turns corporate Americana into a mausoleum for obsolete public performance. The brand once promised that a man would like the way he looked; lockdown made the suit, commute, office, and approving gaze temporarily irrelevant. Chakubi
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A shuttered Men's Wearhouse turns corporate Americana into a mausoleum for obsolete public performance. The brand once promised that a man would like the way he looked; lockdown made the suit, commute, office, and approving gaze temporarily irrelevant. Chakubie forges a harsher 'suit of the self' beneath the scaffold, dressing the body in exertion rather than tailoring. Sartorial compliance has not disappeared. It has migrated into another uniform and another set of expectations.
A Men's Wearhouse storefront forms the commercial backdrop for this pull-up beneath a sidewalk scaffold. The brand is associated with suits, presentation, and the promise that a customer will like the way he looks. Here, those conventions of public appearance meet a different uniform: practical exercise clothing adapted to an improvised street workout.
The facade, shutter, and scaffold divide the frame into rectangles, while Chakubie's bent arms and crossed legs introduce the picture's only compact curves. The store name gives the image its joke, but the quiet surrounding it gives the joke a historical edge. During lockdown, formal clothing and office presentation suddenly mattered less than health, movement, and the maintenance of a daily routine.
The title also announces the Eighth Psy-Op-20. Storefront, pull-up, and numbered designation remain together in plain sight, but the meaning of their conjunction is deferred.
Men's Wearhouse turns the body into an unintended critique of display. The store normally prepares a man to be seen in approved social form; the photograph presents a man dressed for exertion and seen almost incidentally. Appearance remains important, but its rules have been rewritten by circumstance.
Men's Wearhouse belongs to the vanished costume of office life. Suits promise commuting, meetings, ceremonies, and the management of one's public appearance; lockdown replaced much of that ritual with video calls, domestic clothes, and bodies framed from the shoulders up. The storefront therefore reads like a wardrobe waiting for a play whose performances have been cancelled. Chakubie arrives in athletic clothing and makes a different use of the male body—not dressed for institutional approval, but trained through contact with the city's bare steel.
The Eighth Psy-Op calls this sartorial compliance without identifying the garment that matters. Viewers certain they understand the dress code may be the ones most completely dressed by it.
Opening the gallery…